This graph from the September issue of Skin Inc Magazine shows the relative degree of exfoliation of common methods. I love the visual it provides!
Degrees of Exfoliation
Author Archives: hannahsowdinc
What is the difference between chemical and physical sunscreen?
There are two categories of sunscreen ingredients, physical and chemical.
Physical sunscreen ingredients like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide protect the skin by reflecting the light rays.
Chemical sunscreen ingredients like avebenzone and oxybenzone absorb the light rays to protect the skin from damage.
Physical sunscreens do a better job of protecting the skin from sun damage and chemical sunscreens allow products to have a lighter feel and be water resistant. Many popular brands use a combination of physical and chemical sunscreen ingredients to produce the most user friendly product.
As an esthetician who works with a lot of clients suffering from hyper-pigmentation or melasma (often called “sun spots”), I am a fan of physical sunscreens. There is less opportunity for allergic reactions and they are safer for acne prone/sensitive skin as well.
Is makeup bad for my skin?
Q: After getting a facial, I never want to “ruin” the results by putting on makeup afterwards. Is this a real concern? Is wearing makeup that bad for my skin?
A: Back in the days of pancake makeup, full coverage products earned a bad reputation. It took loads of cold cream and harsh cleansers to remove them at the end of the day and they were prone to clogging the pores.
Most modern foundation, especially tinted moisturizers and BB creams, are actually fortified with ingredients that are beneficial to your skin like SPF and antioxidants.
When you apply these products over a treatment cream or serum, the foundation will even out your skin tone without interfering with your skin.
There are exceptions to this, foundation that is designed to give a lot of coverage for a photo shoot for example. I don’t recommend using this type of product on a daily basis, a thick foundation can clog pores and cause breakouts, not too mention it is difficult to remove in the evening. Save it for a special occasion.
As far as applying makeup after a facial, it really depends on the treatment you received. Some treatments, like a self neutralizing chemical peel, require that the skin be left untouched for 5 hours post treatment.
If you are going back to work or out to dinner after a basic facial, there is no downside to applying a small amount of tinted moisturizer or powder.
A popular misconception is that the pores are “open” after a treatment. Pores don’t “open” and “close” like little doors all over your face. The do expand and contract with heat and cold but a good facial will include the appropriate mask followed by high frequency current and moisturizer with SPF before sending you out into the world so your skin will be protected from whatever you choose to apply.
The Best Home Facial Routine for Oily and Combination Skin
1. Cleanse your skin using a light gel cleanser. Make sure to remove all traces of eye makeup, dirt and sunscreen during this initial cleanse.
2. Cleanse your skin a second time to clean the skin. You can use the same gel cleanser or a more nourishing cleanser if you have combination skin.
3. While the skin is still damp, apply a thin layer of an enzyme exfoliating mask. Relax for 3-5 minutes, take this time to chill out and make yourself a cup of tea. Take the leftover hot water and dampen a washcloth for your face. Place the warm washcloth over your face (with the mask still on) for a few minutes and let the heat expand the pores and help the enzyme work. Remove the enzyme mask with the washcloth, then rinse with clean water. If your skin is oily, apply an exfoliating toner with a cotton pad.
4. Apply a thin layer of a white clay balancing mask on clean, dry skin. You can use a facial brush if you like the feeling (and the look of an evenly applied mask). Allow the mask to sit for 8-10 minutes. Take this time to relax, lie on the floor in Savasana (like the Panda) take some deep breaths, have another cup of tea or soak your feet in a mineral salt bath.
5. Using the washcloth if necessary, remove the clay mask then rinse the skin well. Apply an eye cream around the delicate eye area then a treatment moisturizer or SPF moisturizer depending on the time of day.
6. Enjoy your fresh, clean complexion! This home facial routine should be done once a week for best results.
Plant Stem Cells and Anti-aging Skin Care Products
You may have seen skin care products on the market that contain stem cells derived from either plant or animal sources. While stem cells derived from animal or human sources remain controversial, plant stem cells are proven as a safe and effective way to energize skin cells and reverse many signs of aging.
Plant stem cells are undifferentiated cells which carry the entire DNA gene expression of the plant and can morph, or differentiate, into any cell type to help the plant regenerate. This ability makes them invaluable for cosmetic applications since they can address multiple concerns.
These cells can be cultured in a laboratory setting where the concentration of phenylpropanoids—active substances created in response to injury or trauma—is multiplied in these cells by 1,000 times or more. As the stem cells are cultured in this manner, their chemical purity is also enhanced allowing for more influence in safety, control and standardization. When the finished product is applied topically, it works to trigger self-renewal in human skin.
The Mung Bean sprout, or Vigna Radiata, contains all the important substances for regeneration and protection of stressed skin making it’s stem cells particularly effective for skin care applications. The next generation of products from sōwd:therapy for skin will contain this potent extract, coming soon!
Does my car window protect me from sun damage?
No.
This is a fascinating case study from The New England Journal of Medicine that shows Unilateral Dermatoheliosis, essentially sun damage occurring on one side of the face.
The man in the picture was a delivery truck driver for 28 years.
UPDATE 5/24/15: An article from New Beauty about the dangers of sun exposure while flying.
Daily Therapy: Vitamin C Complex
Vitamin C is one of the most important vitamins for the body both inside and out. It contains antioxidant properties which protect our skin against free radical damage from various environmental sources.
Unfortunately, vitamin C cannot be stored in the body long term so to it must be ingested and applied topically on a daily basis.
Daily Therapy Vitamin C Complex is the backbone of any anti-aging skin care routine. It contains three unique forms of targeted vitamin C in a time released formula for optimal effectiveness.
With daily use, skin tone will become more even and pores will become less clogged. The skin begins to appear more youthful and radiant. Fine lines and wrinkles will become less noticeable and new damage will be discouraged.
It can be incorporated into your morning or evening skin care routine depending on what other products you are using but always apply Daily Therapy on clean skin.
For oily or combination skin, Daily Therapy may be used as a moisturizer but if your skin craves more moisture, follow with Moisture Therapy During the day, always follow with a SPF of at least 15.
Adult Acne
“Adult acne” or acne, as I call it, is very frustrating!
We grow up thinking pimples are something that affect us as teenagers and we will eventually grow out of it when we become adults. This is often not the case, especially for women.
Hormone fluctuations brought on by stress or our monthly cycle can bring on a breakout like I’ve illustrated in the “selfie” above! I have access to amazing products and am vigilant about doing everything “right” yet once in awhile, the left side of my chin still gets the best of me.
What can we do about it?
Regular Cleansing Facials are the first step. Schedule them the week before you normally experience a hormonal breakout. The timing different for everyone, sometimes it the week before your cycle, sometimes it’s the week of your cycle. Pay attention and book a preemptive session with your esthetician to get your pores cleaned and possibly a glycolic peel to combat excess bacteria.
Minimize your stress level. Figure out what you need to do to relax on a regular basis: take a yoga class, go for a walk, meditate, sit with a cup of tea and a good book. These activities help to lower your cortisol levels which in turn lower your stress hormones and will decrease you chances of having a stress related break out.
Relax, it’s good for your skin!
Pore Therapy Exfolating Toner
Pore Therapy Exfoliating Toner is the newest addition to the sowd:therapy for skin line of products.
This freshening toner utilizes a unique combination of glycolic, salicylic and lactic acids to minimize pores, smooth texture, reduce oily shine and combat discoloration.
It is a great addition to your daily routine if you have oily or combination skin and can be used as needed if you experience periodic acne like me.
After washing your face, apply Pore Therapy to a cotton pad and smooth over your skin. Do not rinse, follow with your favorite moisturizer. It can be used morning or evening, or both if you have very oily skin
The combination of active ingredients is not recommended for sensitive skin however since it does not contain alcohol, Pore Therapy is less drying than traditional astringents.
Like the rest of the sowd: therapy for skin products, it does not contain parabens, fragrance or artificial color.
Always use a minimum of SPF 15 when using this or any other exfoliating product since you will be more sensitive to sun exposure.
Hannah’s Top 6 Skin Care Tips
6. Exercise
Exercising 3-4 times per week is good for your skin. A recent study shows frequent exercise helps contribute to preserving youthful skin and reversing the“skin age” even if you began exercising later in life.
5. Sleep
Getting 7-8 hours of sleep per night allows your skin time to renew itself, the new skin cells grow and replace older cells. Lack of sleep will make you look tired and can enhance dark circles around the eyes. This time is also a great opportunity to allow your anti-aging products a chance to work their magic without being interrupted.
4. Diet
Just like the rest of your organs, your skin needs nutrients to be healthy. Fresh fruits and vegetables loaded with antioxidants are the best way to get the nutrients your skin needs to stay healthy and youthful (and combat the effects of the not so healthy choices we all make once in awhile!)
3. Skin Care Treatments
Professional skin care treatments are an important part of any skin care routine. Find an esthetician you trust and have a consultation to determine the best course of treatments for your skin type and your goals, both long term and short term.
2. Home Care Products
While professional treatments are very important, what you put on your skin every day is making just as much of an impact, if not more. Once again, consult a professional esthetician or a dermatologist for home care recommendations based on your skin type, your budget and your lifestyle. Be realistic about how much effort you are willing to put into your routine but also realize, in many cases, less effort can equal less results.
1. Water
If you are dehydrated, your skin will look like crap, have a glass of water. Drink half your body weight in ounces every day. Your skin will thank you!
How to get adequate Vitamin D
There is a lot of information floating around about Vitamin D, it can get very confusing!
As of November 2010, the recommended daily dose of Vitamin D for adults is a minimum of 600 IU and a maximum of 4,000 IU.
The three vitamin D “super foods” are:
• Salmon
• Mackerel
• Mushrooms exposed to ultraviolet light to increase vitamin D
4 ounces of Wild Salmon contains 511 IU so it can be difficult get adequate amounts of Vitamin D from food alone. I prefer a supplement like Emergen-C which contains 1000 IU of Vitamin D and 500 MG of Vitamin C along with Calcium and other goodies.
Other food sources of vitamin D include:
• Cod liver oil
• Tuna canned in water
• Sardines canned in oil
• Milk or yogurt fortified with vitamin D
• Beef or calf liver
• Egg yolks
• Cheese
Exposing your skin to UVB rays is an easy way to absorb Vitamin D as long as you are careful. For most people 10 minutes of direct sunlight per day is enough. This is not an excuse to skip the sunscreen on your face!
Tanning beds offer only UVA rays, not UVB rays so they will not affect your Vitamin D levels.
Fun fact:
Redheads burn more easily when exposed to UV rays, but their paleness can serve as an advantage. Their lower melanin-concentration actually allows them to produce their own Vitamin D within their
body when exposed to low light conditions.
Skin Care Advice for Sun Junkies!
Summer will be here before we know it and I have a few clients that can’t get enough of the sun’s warm rays. Whether it’s regular vacations to Hawaii or outdoor sports, the end result from sun exposure is the same.
Most importantly, be honest with yourself and your skin care therapist about your sun habits. This empowers you to make a plan together that will allow for your skin to be at it’s best without creating further damage.
Use an antioxidant serum every day. Layer it under your sunscreen for increased protection and to combat the free radicals associated with sun exposure.
Moisturize your entire body every day; use a rich cocoa butter, skin oil or antioxidant vitamin C body lotion.
I’ve seen articles recommending coconut oil as a “natural sunscreen”. Coconut oil has a naturally occurring SPF of 7 so it will protect you for 7 times longer than the amount of time it takes your skin begin to burn in the sun; about 45 minutes to an hour.
I recommend using a sunscreen containing zinc oxide, like Suntegrity, while in the sun, save the coconut oil to moisturize afterwards!
Minimize your exposure to direct sunlight, especially during the peak hours of 10am-2pm. Wear a hat with a large brim to shade your face and thin layers to give your body a break from the sun when on the beach.
If you can’t get enough of the golden glow, opt for a sunless spray tan. Companies like SunFX have perfected their products so no one will be the wiser!
Beauty Product Buyers Remorse!
It happens to the best of us; in the relaxed haze of an island vacation (or the sleepy haze of a late night infomercial) we purchase a slew of skin care products that are all wrong for our skin.
The first step is always check the return policy, many companies will allow returns or exchanges of the unused portion within 30 days of purchase.
If your stuck with the product, don’t fret. There are creative ways to make use of items not suited for our complexion!
Creams that are too heavy for the face are wonderful to use on the body. The night cream that clogged the pores on you face will do wonders for your dry cuticles and hands. Same goes for oil based serums.
Retinol, AHA, and glycolic products that prove too strong for your face will smooth your rough elbows and heels in no time. Same goes for harsh facial scrubs.
Creamy cleanser too creamy for your oily skin? Most cream cleansers can do double duty as an eye makeup remover.
Foaming cleanser drying out your combination skin? Use it as a body wash, especially good for areas like the chest and back which might be prone to break outs.
Resist the urge to stow these items away in your beauty closet, they will just sit there until they expire and you’ll waste them entirely. Get creative!
The Anti-Aging Food Pyramid
Eye Lash Growth Serum
Q: Do eyelash growth serums work? What is the difference between prescription and over the counter products?
A: These serums contain ingredients which extend the anagen or growth period of the natural cycle of eye lash growth as well as conditioners to improve the look of the lashes. They have been proven to be very effective when used consistently.
Bimatoprost is the only ingredient proven effective by lab studies and currently, Allergan (the makes of Latisse) has exclusive rights to its use. It was originally used in glaucoma medication to relieve pressure in the eyes and a side effect was longer, thicker eye lashes. It has been proven safe to use for everyone except those with a history of glaucoma.
Latisse claims to make the eye lashes darker over time but I have not personally seen this result nor have any of my clients. Some people do experience irritation or a darkening of the skin along the lash line.
Consistency is key, you must use the serum daily for 90 days to achieve the maximum results then a few times a week for maintenance.
The over the counter products you see on the market are “lash conditioners” or “lash enhancers” and because of Allergan’s patent, they cannot contain bimatoprost. They might make your lashes healthier but not necessarily longer. Many popular companies have been forced to reformulate their products over the past few years, make sure to check the ingredients and read the label so you know what your are purchasing!
Delicious DIY Body Scrub
This is a post from guest blogger Jacquelyn Omotalade, lifestyle blogger and founder of Ruth Omosunbo.
The weather outside is frightening!
I have a tough time keeping my skin moisturized. The changing weather temperatures are brutal on my skin. I pine for the skin of a newborn baby – soft and delicate. I have found a DIY body scrub that helps me get it.
I am very wary of a lot of over the counter lotions and creams. If I can’t understand or pronounce the words on the back of the container, how do I know the products are safe for my body?
My concerns lead me to develop my own products for my skin at home and the results have been fabulous.
One of my favorite products is my brown sugar and Coffee scrub. It has worked miracles on my skin. I use it 2-3 times a week and find that it helps my skin stay soft and moisturized.
Ingredients
2 cups of coffee grinds
1.5 cups of dark muscovado sugar
2 cups of coconut oil (liquid form)
2 cups of olive oil
2 tablespoons of ginger powder
2 tablespoons of cinnamon powder
1 tablespoon of tee tree oil
½ cup of vegetable glycerin
2 12-16 oz air tight containers
I first add the coffee grinds and sugar into a clean bowl. Add the coconut oil and stir the mixture together. Next add the ginger and cinnamon powders and tea tree oil.
Mix the ingredients together. They should begin to form a paste.
Mix in the olive oil and glycerin. Make sure the paste is completely mixed together.
Coat the inside of the air tight container with coconut oil. Pour the paste into the container.
To use, take a shower as you normally do, then turn off the water and scrub your whole body with the exception of your face with the body scrub. Rub as much of the body scrub as you can off your body, then rinse your body off with luke warm water. Pat your skin dry and go about your day.
Jacquelyn Omotalade is a socially conscious lifestyle blogger, founder of Ruth Omosunbo, a batik and textile boutique founded to enrich the lives of artisans around the world and one of my favorite all around divas! She currently resides in San Francisco.
How can I fix my rough, dry heels?
Q: My heels are dry and rough from the winter weather, what can I do to fix this?
A: You can have smooth the feet, the key is consistent care.
1. Purchase a basic pumice stone and use it daily in the shower. The goal is to remove the dead skin cells so the moisturizer can penetrate.
2. After you shower, apply a glycolic acid cream to the area continue the exfoliation process and add moisture.
3. Before you go to bed, apply a thick layer of a rich cream like shea butter or cocoa butter all over your feet and put on socks. You don’t need the fancy socks designed to smooth your feet, just an old pair you don’t mind getting dirty.
Continue this routine daily until your feet are soft and smooth then at least once a week for maintenance.
Many nail salons offer fancy pedicure that include shaving off callouses with a blade. If your feet are heavily calloused, check with a podiatirst before having any invasive treatment. Done incorrectly, it can lead to infection and long term foot pain.
Enzyme Therapy: Exfoliating Mask
Exfoliation is such an important part of any skin care routine and there are many options on the market. Most products fall into one of three categories: physical, chemical or enzyme.
I prefer an enzyme because they are gentle yet very effective when used correctly.
Enzyme Therapy: Exfoliating Mask employs beta-hydroxy acids as well as fruit enzymes from pumpkin and pomegranate to lift dead skin cells and release oxidized sebum from the pores. This gel mask is designed to be used 1-3 times per week, depending on your skin.
Apply a thin layer to clean, damp skin and spread evenly over the face. Allow the product to sit for 3-5 minutes: this is when the magic happens! Rinse clean with cool water and apply a serum or moisturizer.
Enzyme masks can be a little more time consuming than a scrub or an acid but the results are worth it.
Makeup for men?
Recently, I realized half of my tinted moisturizer sales were to my male clients.
Men want to put their best face forward even if it means having some help. More companies are actually creating makeup lines for men but venturing into this realm can be daunting.
As with anything new, start simple. The new breed of tinted moisturizers are great (often called BB cream or CC cream), they provide light coverage to even skin tone and decrease shine while providing all the benefits of an SPF and moisturizer. My personal favorite is Suntegrity.
If you have a pimple or any area where you need more coverage, use a concealer. This is a product with more pigment designed to camouflage imperfections. It is not meant to be used in large areas.
A light application of tinted face powder will provide some coverage and reduce shine. Be careful not to get heavy handed since excess powder can cake in the creases of your face during the day.
Consult a professional if you have a difficult time finding a color that matches your skin tone.
When applying any tinted product, avoid the beard area if you have stubble. The product will get caught in the hairs.
Avoid wearing any tinted product when you are working out, it will run and discolor your shirt collar and towels.
Wash your face with a product designed to dissolve makeup in the evening.
Makeup can be fun, embrace it!
Are you addicted to product samples?
Q: “I go crazy collecting skin care product samples in department stores, I LOVE samples! Is it bad for my skin to be using so many different products?
A: Yes! Trying new products all the time can confuse your skin and lead to irritation. The amount of product in most sample packs lasts for 2-4 days so you may be using multiple products for each step inside of one week.
Another major downside: when you skin is looking fab, you won’t know which product made the difference!
I recommend testing one sample product at a time while keeping the rest of your routine consistent. Unfortunately, the amount of product in one sample pack won’t really tell you if it’s going to produce major results in the long run but it will tell you if you like the texture and scent.
It’s tempting to load your suitcase with product samples for travel but this isn’t the best idea either. Dry airplane air and a new climate alters your skin. The face wash that leaves your skin glowing in the humidity of Hawaii might leave you dry and flaky during the windy winter in San Francisco! Invest in refillable bottles and keep your vacation routine consistent.
Got a skin care question? Email hannahsowd@hannahsowd.com