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Adult Acne

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“Adult acne” or acne, as I call it, is very frustrating!

We grow up thinking  pimples are something that affect us as teenagers and we will eventually grow out of it when we become adults. This is often not the case, especially for women.

Hormone fluctuations brought on by stress or our monthly cycle can bring on a breakout like I’ve illustrated in the “selfie” above! I have access to amazing products and am vigilant about doing everything “right” yet once in awhile, the left side of my chin still gets the best of me.

What can we do about it?

Regular Cleansing Facials are the first step. Schedule them the week before you normally experience a hormonal breakout. The timing different for everyone, sometimes it the week before your cycle, sometimes it’s the week of your cycle. Pay attention and book a preemptive session with your esthetician to get your pores cleaned and possibly a glycolic peel to combat excess bacteria.

Minimize your stress level. Figure out what you need to do to relax on a regular basis: take a yoga class, go for a walk, meditate, sit with a cup of tea and a good book. These activities help to lower your cortisol levels which in turn lower your stress hormones and will decrease you chances of having a stress related break out.

Relax, it’s good for your skin!

Pore Therapy Exfolating Toner

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Pore Therapy Exfoliating Toner is the newest addition to the sowd:therapy for skin line of products.

This freshening toner utilizes a unique combination of glycolic, salicylic and lactic acids to minimize pores, smooth texture, reduce oily shine and combat discoloration.

It is a great addition to your daily routine if you have oily or combination skin and can be used as needed if you experience periodic acne like me.

After washing your face, apply Pore Therapy to a cotton pad and smooth over your skin. Do not rinse, follow with your favorite moisturizer. It can be used morning or evening, or both if you have very oily skin

The combination of active ingredients is not recommended for sensitive skin however since it does not contain alcohol, Pore Therapy is less drying than traditional astringents.

Like the rest of the sowd: therapy for skin products, it does not contain parabens, fragrance or artificial color.

Always use a minimum of SPF 15 when using this or any other exfoliating product since you will be more sensitive to sun exposure.

 

Hannah’s Top 6 Skin Care Tips

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6. Exercise

Exercising 3-4 times per week is good for your skin. A recent study shows frequent exercise helps contribute to preserving youthful skin and reversing the“skin age” even if you began exercising later in life.

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5. Sleep

Getting 7-8 hours of sleep per night allows your skin time to renew itself, the new skin cells grow and replace older cells. Lack of sleep will make you look tired and can enhance dark circles around the eyes. This time is also a great opportunity to allow your anti-aging products a chance to work their magic without being interrupted.

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4. Diet

Just like the rest of your organs, your skin needs nutrients to be healthy. Fresh fruits and vegetables loaded with antioxidants are the best way to get the nutrients your skin needs to stay healthy and youthful (and combat the effects of the not so healthy choices we all make once in awhile!)

3. Skin Care Treatments

Professional skin care treatments are an important part of any skin care routine. Find an esthetician you trust and have a consultation to determine the best course of treatments for your skin type and your goals, both long term and short term.

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2. Home Care Products

While professional treatments are very important, what you put on your skin every day is making just as much of an impact, if not more. Once again, consult a professional esthetician or a dermatologist for home care recommendations based on your skin type, your budget and your lifestyle. Be realistic about how much effort you are willing to put into your routine but also realize, in many cases, less effort can equal less results.

1. Water

If you are dehydrated, your skin will look like crap, have a glass of water.  Drink half your body weight in ounces every day. Your skin will thank you!

glass_of_water

How to get adequate Vitamin D

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There is a lot of information floating around about Vitamin D, it can get very confusing!

As of November 2010, the recommended daily dose of Vitamin D for adults is a minimum of 600 IU  and a maximum of 4,000 IU.

The three vitamin D “super foods” are:
•    Salmon

•    Mackerel

•    Mushrooms exposed to ultraviolet light to increase vitamin D

4 ounces of Wild Salmon contains 511 IU so it can be difficult get adequate amounts of Vitamin D from food alone.  I prefer a supplement like  Emergen-C which contains 1000 IU of Vitamin D and 500 MG of Vitamin C along with Calcium and other goodies.

Other food sources of vitamin D include:

•    Cod liver oil
•    Tuna canned in water
•    Sardines canned in oil
•    Milk or yogurt fortified with vitamin D
•    Beef or calf liver
•    Egg yolks
•    Cheese

Exposing your skin to UVB rays is an easy way to absorb Vitamin D as long as you are careful. For most people 10 minutes of direct sunlight per day is enough. This is not an excuse to skip the sunscreen on your face!

Tanning beds offer only UVA rays, not UVB rays so they will not affect your Vitamin D levels.

Fun fact:

Redheads burn more easily when exposed to UV rays, but their paleness can serve as an advantage. Their lower melanin-concentration actually allows them to produce their own Vitamin D within their
body when exposed to low light conditions.

Skin Care Advice for Sun Junkies!

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Summer will be here before we know it and I have a few clients that can’t get enough of the sun’s warm rays. Whether it’s regular vacations to Hawaii or outdoor sports, the end result from sun exposure is the same.

Most importantly, be honest with yourself and your skin care therapist about your sun habits. This empowers you to make a plan together that will allow for your skin to be at it’s best without creating further damage.

Use an antioxidant serum every day. Layer it under your sunscreen for increased protection and to combat the free radicals associated with sun exposure.

Moisturize your entire body every day; use a rich cocoa butter, skin oil or antioxidant vitamin C body lotion.

I’ve seen articles recommending coconut oil as a “natural sunscreen”. Coconut oil has a naturally occurring SPF of 7 so it will protect you for 7 times longer than the amount of time it takes your skin begin to burn in the sun; about 45 minutes to an hour.

I recommend using a sunscreen containing zinc oxide, like Suntegrity, while in the sun, save the coconut oil to moisturize afterwards!

Minimize your exposure to direct sunlight, especially during the peak hours of 10am-2pm. Wear a hat with a large brim to shade your face and thin layers to give your body a break from the sun when on the beach.

If you can’t get enough of the golden glow, opt for a sunless spray tan. Companies like SunFX have perfected their products so no one will be the wiser!

Beauty Product Buyers Remorse!

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It happens to the best of us; in the relaxed haze of an island vacation (or the sleepy haze of a late night infomercial) we purchase a slew of skin care products that are all wrong for our skin.

The first step is always check the return policy, many companies will allow returns or exchanges of the unused portion within 30 days of purchase.

If your stuck with the product, don’t fret. There are creative ways to make use of items not suited for our complexion!

Creams that are too heavy for the face are wonderful to use on the body. The night cream that clogged the pores on you face will do wonders for your dry cuticles and hands. Same goes for oil based serums.

Retinol, AHA, and glycolic products that prove too strong for your face will smooth your rough elbows and heels in no time. Same goes for harsh facial scrubs.

Creamy cleanser too creamy for your oily skin? Most cream cleansers can do double duty as an eye makeup remover.

Foaming cleanser drying out your combination skin? Use it as a body wash, especially good for areas like the chest and back which might be prone to break outs.

Resist the urge to stow these items away in your beauty closet, they will just sit there until they expire and you’ll waste them entirely. Get creative!

Eye Lash Growth Serum

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Q: Do eyelash growth serums work? What is the difference between prescription and over the counter products?

A: These serums contain ingredients which extend the anagen or growth period of the natural cycle of eye lash growth as well as conditioners to improve the look of the lashes. They have been proven to be very effective when used consistently.

Bimatoprost is the only ingredient proven effective by lab studies and currently, Allergan (the makes of Latisse) has exclusive rights to its use. It was originally used in glaucoma medication to relieve pressure in the eyes and a side effect was longer, thicker eye lashes. It has been proven safe to use for everyone except those with a history of glaucoma.

Latisse claims to make the eye lashes darker over time but I have not personally seen this result nor have any of my clients. Some people do experience irritation or a darkening of the skin along the lash line.

Consistency is key, you must use the serum daily for 90 days to achieve the maximum results then a few times a week for maintenance.

The over the counter products you see on the market are “lash conditioners” or “lash enhancers” and because of Allergan’s patent, they cannot contain bimatoprost. They might make your lashes healthier but not necessarily longer. Many popular companies have been forced to reformulate their products over the past few years, make sure to check the ingredients and read the label so you know what your are purchasing!

Delicious DIY Body Scrub

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This is a post from guest blogger Jacquelyn Omotalade, lifestyle blogger and founder of Ruth Omosunbo.

The weather outside is frightening!

I have a tough time keeping my skin moisturized.  The changing weather temperatures are brutal on my skin.  I pine for the skin of a newborn baby – soft and delicate.  I have found a DIY body scrub that helps me get it.

I am very wary of a lot of over the counter lotions and creams.  If I can’t understand or pronounce the words on the back of the container, how do I know the products are safe for my body?

My concerns lead me to develop my own products for my skin at home and the results have been fabulous.

One of my favorite products is my brown sugar and Coffee scrub.  It has worked miracles on my skin.  I use it 2-3 times a week and find that it helps my skin stay soft and moisturized.

Ingredients

2 cups of coffee grinds

1.5  cups of dark muscovado sugar

2 cups of coconut oil (liquid form)

2 cups of olive oil

2 tablespoons of ginger powder

2 tablespoons of cinnamon powder

1 tablespoon of tee tree oil

½ cup of vegetable glycerin

2 12-16 oz air tight containers

I first add the coffee grinds and sugar into a clean bowl.  Add the coconut oil and stir the mixture together.  Next add the ginger and cinnamon powders and tea tree oil.

Mix the ingredients together. They should begin to form a paste.

Mix in the olive oil and glycerin. Make sure the paste is completely mixed together.

Coat the inside of the air tight container with coconut oil.  Pour the paste into the container.

To use, take a shower as you normally do, then turn off the water and scrub your whole body with the exception of your face with the body scrub. Rub as much of the body scrub as you can off your body, then rinse your body off with luke warm water.  Pat your skin dry and go about your day.

Jacquelyn Omotalade is a socially conscious lifestyle blogger, founder of Ruth Omosunbo, a batik and textile boutique founded to enrich the lives of artisans around the world and one of my favorite all around divas! She currently resides in San Francisco.

How can I fix my rough, dry heels?

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Q: My heels are dry and rough from the winter weather, what can I do to fix this?

A: You can have smooth the feet, the key is consistent care.

1. Purchase a basic pumice stone and use it daily in the shower. The goal is to remove the dead skin cells so the moisturizer can penetrate.

2. After you shower, apply a glycolic acid cream to the area continue the exfoliation process and add moisture.

3. Before you go to bed, apply a thick layer of a rich cream like shea butter or cocoa butter all over your feet and put on socks. You don’t need the fancy socks designed to smooth your feet, just an old pair you don’t mind getting dirty.

Continue this routine daily until your feet are soft and smooth then at least once a week for maintenance.

Many nail salons offer fancy pedicure that include shaving off callouses with a blade. If your feet are heavily calloused, check with a podiatirst before having any invasive treatment. Done incorrectly, it can lead to infection and long term foot pain.

Enzyme Therapy: Exfoliating Mask

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Exfoliation is such an important part of any skin care routine and there are many options on the market. Most products fall into one of three categories: physical, chemical or enzyme.

I prefer an enzyme because they are gentle yet very effective when used correctly.

Enzyme Therapy: Exfoliating Mask employs beta-hydroxy acids as well as fruit enzymes from pumpkin and pomegranate to lift dead skin cells and release oxidized sebum from the pores. This gel mask is designed to be used 1-3 times per week, depending on your skin.

Apply a thin layer to clean, damp skin and spread evenly over the face. Allow the product to sit for 3-5 minutes: this is when the magic happens! Rinse clean with cool water and apply a serum or moisturizer.

Enzyme masks can be a little more time consuming than a scrub or an acid but the results are worth it.

Makeup for men?

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Recently, I realized half of my tinted moisturizer sales were to my male clients.

Men want to put their best face forward even if it means having some help. More companies are actually creating makeup lines for men but venturing into this realm can be daunting.

As with anything new, start simple. The new breed of tinted moisturizers are great (often called BB cream or CC cream), they provide light coverage to even skin tone and decrease shine while providing all the benefits of an SPF and moisturizer. My personal favorite is Suntegrity.

If you have a pimple or any area where you need more coverage, use a concealer. This is a product with more pigment designed to camouflage imperfections. It is not meant to be used in large areas.

A light application of tinted face powder will provide some coverage and reduce shine. Be careful not to get heavy handed since excess powder can cake in the creases of your face during the day.

Consult a professional if you have a difficult time finding a color that matches your skin tone.

When applying any tinted product, avoid the beard area if you have stubble. The product will get caught in the hairs.

Avoid wearing any tinted product when you are working out, it will run and discolor your shirt collar and towels.

Wash your face with a product designed to dissolve makeup in the evening.

Makeup can be fun, embrace it!

Are you addicted to product samples?

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Q: “I go crazy collecting skin care product samples in department stores, I LOVE samples! Is it bad for my skin to be using so many different products?

A: Yes! Trying new products all the time can confuse your skin and lead to irritation. The amount of product in most sample packs lasts for 2-4 days so you may be using multiple products for each step inside of one week.

Another major downside: when you skin is looking fab, you won’t know which product made the difference!

I recommend testing one sample product at a time while keeping the rest of your routine consistent. Unfortunately, the amount of product in one sample pack won’t really tell you if it’s going to produce major results in the long run but it will tell you if you like the texture and scent.

It’s tempting to load your suitcase with product samples for travel but this isn’t the best idea either. Dry airplane air and a new climate alters your skin. The face wash that leaves your skin glowing in the humidity of Hawaii might leave you dry and flaky during the windy winter in San Francisco! Invest in refillable bottles and keep your vacation routine consistent.

Got a skin care question? Email hannahsowd@hannahsowd.com

New treatment: A Match Made in Heaven

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Every so often I look at my treatment menu and think “What more can I offer?”, then I recruit a friend to be my guinea pig and, most times, a new treatment is born!

My most recent “discovery” is the amazing combination of Dermaglow Microdermabrasion and Deep Skin Ionization. It’s the total package: resurfacing, anti-acne, anti-aging, firming and clarifying.

This combination of treatments is aggressive, I wouldn’t recommend it for sensitive skin types or immediately before a big event. It’s perfect for more resilient skin types who want to kick start a new skin care routine or need a pick me up after a busy summer. The Before and After photo above shows the results of a series of 6 treatments, spaced 2 weeks apart and paired with a home care routine. If you want to determine whether this treatment is good for you, drop me an email hannahsowd@hannahsowd.com and we can discuss your options. If you ready to book, go here!

About Hannah

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Hannah Sowd combines her varied work history and extensive education to provide effective skin care treatments and therapeutic body work. She embraces a holistic approach centered around lifestyle and preventative maintenance.

As a teenager Hannah suffered from hereditary acne, she received facials from an esthetician which piqued her interest in skin care. Her skin problems eventually led her to a dermatologist where she noticed a profound disconnect between the two professions.

The dermatologist didn’t approve of the esthetician’s treatments and vice versa but Hannah thought “I’m getting results from the combination of treatments, what would it be like if they were able to work together?”. Fast forward twenty years and, thankfully, that is becoming a  reality

In 1998, Hannah learned a new treatment from Europe that was gaining popularity in the states; microdermabrasion. This marked a major turning point in the skin care industry and Hannah’s career. Microdermabrasion was one of the first effective, affordable treatment options for acne scars and wrinkles and helped bridge the gap between the spa and the
doctors office. Years later, it remains one of the most popular treatments in the industry as well as on the menu at Hannah Sowd Skin Care.

For eight years, Hannah ran the skin care department at the Spa at The Four Seasons Hotel in Beverly Hills.  The fast paced environment centered around “awards show season” and catered to the Hollywood elite, providing cutting edge, effective yet relaxing treatments.

When Hannah decided to move home to Northern California, she took her career in a new direction and accepted a position practicing skin care in a plastic surgery office.  The world of plastic surgery wasn’t the best fit so she moved on to build a part-time practice in a dermatology office in downtown San Francisco.

Always curious about owning her own business, Hannah started seeing clients at a shared studio space two days a week. After four years of working 6-7 days a week, her business was booming so she made the transition to a full time private practice in 2012.

Today, Hannah Sowd Skin Care operates 7 days a week and sells Hannah’s line of skin care products, sowd:therapy for skin. It is the embodiment of Hannah’s diverse experience and education, providing effective, relaxing, customized treatments and high quality skin care products.

Laser Tattoo Removal

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Tattoos are often considered permanent, it is possible to remove them, sometimes fully, but often there is a shadow of ink or a scar left behind. Tattoos gained popularity in the 90’s, tattoo removal gained popularity in the 00’s!

Early forms of tattoo removal included the injection or application of wine, lime, garlic or pigeon excrement. Tattoo removal by laser was performed with continuous-wave lasers initially, and later with Q-switch lasers, which became commercially available in the early 1990s. Today, “laser tattoo removal” usually refers to the non-invasive removal of tattoo pigments using Q-switched lasers.

Tattoo removal lasers break down the ink in the tattoo then the broken-down ink is absorbed by the body, mimicking the natural fading that time or sun exposure would create. A tattoo laser must be capable of emitting adequate energy within the given absorption spectrum of the pigment to provide an effective treatment. Certain tattoo pigments, like yellows and greens are more challenging to treat than darker blacks and blues, because they have absorption spectra that fall outside or on the edge of the emission spectra available in the tattoo removal laser.

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A 19 year old, black tattoo on my ankle after 17 laser treatments.

Tattoo removal sessions vary in intensity, largely depending on the practitioner and the laser device. Laser tattoo removal must be performed by a doctor, or in some states, a registered nurse. It is not uncommon to have some blistering and swelling at the treatment site after a laser treatment. This actually speeds the breakdown of the ink.

On average, it can take 12-15 treatments to completely remove a tattoo. Depending on the size of the tattoo, each session can cost $125-$300 and
even higher.

Tattoo “removal” is a very popular service, however, be aware it may not be as easy as it sounds!

Makeup Tips

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For an esthetician, I am NOT a naturally inclined makeup person!

Over the yeaphoto 2 copyrs I have picked up a few useful makeup tips that I often share with my clients so I thought I’d share them with you.

Healthy skin has it’s own glow that shouldn’t be covered up but I love the idea of a tinted moisturizer to even things out. I haven’t found one that makes me feel like I am getting enough sun protection so I make my own. I take a good sized dollop of my favorite sunscreen and mix it with a small amount of foundation.

I apply the mixture like lotion, all over my face then follow with a light dusting of mineral powder to reduce the shine. It evens out my skin tone while providing adequate sun protection for a day in the city and not making me look overly “made-up”.

I admit to having a bit of an eyelash fetish so mascara is an important part of my daily routine. Clinque High Impact Mascara is my current fav, in black of course (I don’t understand the point of brown photo 1mascara!).

I apply mascara to the top side of my top lashes, then the underside of my top lashes and touch up and areas I’ve missed. Coating both sides gives a much bolder look than just coating the under side.

What are your favorite makeup tips? Please share them in the comments below!

Halloween Makeup (REMOVAL) Techniques!

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You spent hours on your Halloween makeup, had a great night trick or treating (or drinking) and by the time you get home you just want to fall into bed (or pass out).

Take an extra few minutes to remove your makeup and you will thank me in the morning!

First, hold a warm wash cloth over your entire face for a few minutes. This will remove excess surface debris and allow you to see where you need to focus your efforts.

Second, cold cream is your friend! So is pure jojoba oil. Both will remove most oil based makeup easily. Allow the product to sit on your skin for a few minutes to break down the makeup instead of rubbing which will just cause excess irritation.

Use an eye makeup remover or more jojoba oil on a cotton pad to remove eye makeup. Hold the cotton pad over your eye for a few minutes to emulsify eye lash adhesive before pulling your lashes off.

Wash your face twice with your favorite facial cleanser and apply a heavy night cream. Pass out.

The next morning (after your head clears from the fog; either sugar or alcohol induced), wash your face again, use a Clarisonic brush if you have one, and remove any traces of eye makeup. Apply a gentle clay mask and let it sit for 10 minutes. Rinse and hydrate well.

You will probably need a heavier moisturizer for the next few days, costume makeup can dehydrate the skin.

Use the mask every other day for the next week if you are breaking out or have more blackheads than usual.

Now is a great time for professional facial.

Happy Halloween!

Fabulous Lashes

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Eye lashes are a major focus in the cosmetic industry and this trend shows no sign of  going away. There are many ways to enhance the lash line, following are some of the popular options.

Eyelash Enhancing Serums:
The active ingredient in most of these products is prostaglandin which extends the growth phase of the eye lash resulting in longer, thicker lashes. Latisse uses a higher concentration which is why it is classified as a prescription, many over the counter products (like my current fav LiLash) use the same ingredient in non-prescription strength doses. These products require daily use for the first 3-4 months to see maximum results, then you can taper off to 3-4 times per week to keep your fabulous lashes. Latisse claims to darken lashes as well but I used it for over a year and noticed no darkening. These products can also be used to enhance eye brow growth.

Semi-permanent mascara:
Semi-permanent mascara is a professionally applied mascara designed to last 10-14 days. The application process takes about 30 minutes and can be tailored to your specifications regarding length, thickness etc. The mascara is waterproof which makes it an excellent choice for vacations and special events.

Eyelash tinting:
Tinting or dying the eyelashes is a great option for people with light colored eyelashes. The process takes about 20 minutes and lasts for 2-3 weeks. Tinting enhances the color of the lashes but doesn’t affect length or thickness.

Eye lash extensions:
(pictured above, compliments of my fabulous friend Akiko)
Lash extensions are semi-permanent false eyelashes. An extension is added to each individual lash to create a customized look. The process can take up to 2 hours for a full set, less for touch-ups or partial sets. With proper care, they can last up to 3 weeks before a touch up session is needed.

Is coffee really bad for your skin?

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First off, I should admit, I am a coffee junkie. Not only do I love it; the taste, the smell, the ritual; most days I can’t function without it. I start the day with 1-2 cups of French Press then continue with an afternoon latte.

I know skin care professionals that force their clients to cut back or eliminate coffee from their diet for the sake of their skin but I am not one of them! A few weeks ago, I started to wonder, is coffee really bad for your skin? I know caffeine causes dehydration, I try to work an additional 8 ounces of water into my day for each cup of coffee I consume to balance this effect. When applied topically, coffee berries are a potent antioxidant and beneficial for healthy skin. Caffeine dehydrates skin cells by energizing them, causing them to release sodium, potassium and water, which makes skin appear smoother so it is often use in cellulite treatments and eye creams.

Ground coffee beans can be added to an oil base to make a natural body scrub that also reduces the appearance of cellulite. Try this simple scrub at home with your leftover coffee grounds:

Coffee Body Scrub

  • 2 cups leftover coffee grounds
  • 1/2 cup brown sugar
  • 1 tablespoon Jojoba Oil

Mix all items together in a bowl.
Apply liberally to your body while bathing or showering concentrating on rough patches and bumpy skin. Rinse well.

Recent research has shown coffee might have skin cancer-preventing properties; an experiment performed on mice showed that, when combined with exercise, caffeine boosted the mice’s natural defenses against UV rays by an unbelievable 400%. The evidence examined in this particular experiment is a process called apoptosis, by which the body gets rid of damaged and cancerous cells by killing them off. Researchers in Seattle performed a similar experiment, on cultured human skin cells; after placing the cells in a caffeine bath and exposing them to UV rays, they found that the caffeine killed the cells that had been damaged. There’s a very real possibility that caffeine in coffee might prevent the spread of skin cancer by killing damaged cells before they have a chance to become cancerous.

Caffeine does have a negative effect on severe acne, increasing the swelling and severity of cysts. The physiological reaction is described in detail here but even this article goes on to say that moderate coffee consumption as part of a balanced diet is not going to cause acne.

Here’s what Dr Weil recently said on the subject of coffee consumption.

All things considered, I refuse to give up my coffee habit, it isn’t harming my skin and may, in fact, be keeping me healthier in the long run.