Category Archives: Skin Care

Hannah’s Top 6 Skin Care Tips

6. Exercise

Exercising 3-4 times per week is good for your skin. A recent study shows frequent exercise helps contribute to preserving youthful skin and reversing the“skin age” even if you began exercising later in life.

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5. Sleep

Getting 7-8 hours of sleep per night allows your skin time to renew itself, the new skin cells grow and replace older cells. Lack of sleep will make you look tired and can enhance dark circles around the eyes. This time is also a great opportunity to allow your anti-aging products a chance to work their magic without being interrupted.

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4. Diet

Just like the rest of your organs, your skin needs nutrients to be healthy. Fresh fruits and vegetables loaded with antioxidants are the best way to get the nutrients your skin needs to stay healthy and youthful (and combat the effects of the not so healthy choices we all make once in awhile!)

3. Skin Care Treatments

Professional skin care treatments are an important part of any skin care routine. Find an esthetician you trust and have a consultation to determine the best course of treatments for your skin type and your goals, both long term and short term.

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2. Home Care Products

While professional treatments are very important, what you put on your skin every day is making just as much of an impact, if not more. Once again, consult a professional esthetician or a dermatologist for home care recommendations based on your skin type, your budget and your lifestyle. Be realistic about how much effort you are willing to put into your routine but also realize, in many cases, less effort can equal less results.

1. Water

If you are dehydrated, your skin will look like crap, have a glass of water.  Drink half your body weight in ounces every day. Your skin will thank you!

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Skin Care Advice for Sun Junkies!

Summer will be here before we know it and I have a few clients that can’t get enough of the sun’s warm rays. Whether it’s regular vacations to Hawaii or outdoor sports, the end result from sun exposure is the same.

Most importantly, be honest with yourself and your skin care therapist about your sun habits. This empowers you to make a plan together that will allow for your skin to be at it’s best without creating further damage.

Use an antioxidant serum every day. Layer it under your sunscreen for increased protection and to combat the free radicals associated with sun exposure.

Moisturize your entire body every day; use a rich cocoa butter, skin oil or antioxidant vitamin C body lotion.

I’ve seen articles recommending coconut oil as a “natural sunscreen”. Coconut oil has a naturally occurring SPF of 7 so it will protect you for 7 times longer than the amount of time it takes your skin begin to burn in the sun; about 45 minutes to an hour.

I recommend using a sunscreen containing zinc oxide, like Suntegrity, while in the sun, save the coconut oil to moisturize afterwards!

Minimize your exposure to direct sunlight, especially during the peak hours of 10am-2pm. Wear a hat with a large brim to shade your face and thin layers to give your body a break from the sun when on the beach.

If you can’t get enough of the golden glow, opt for a sunless spray tan. Companies like SunFX have perfected their products so no one will be the wiser!

Beauty Product Buyers Remorse!

It happens to the best of us; in the relaxed haze of an island vacation (or the sleepy haze of a late night infomercial) we purchase a slew of skin care products that are all wrong for our skin.

The first step is always check the return policy, many companies will allow returns or exchanges of the unused portion within 30 days of purchase.

If your stuck with the product, don’t fret. There are creative ways to make use of items not suited for our complexion!

Creams that are too heavy for the face are wonderful to use on the body. The night cream that clogged the pores on you face will do wonders for your dry cuticles and hands. Same goes for oil based serums.

Retinol, AHA, and glycolic products that prove too strong for your face will smooth your rough elbows and heels in no time. Same goes for harsh facial scrubs.

Creamy cleanser too creamy for your oily skin? Most cream cleansers can do double duty as an eye makeup remover.

Foaming cleanser drying out your combination skin? Use it as a body wash, especially good for areas like the chest and back which might be prone to break outs.

Resist the urge to stow these items away in your beauty closet, they will just sit there until they expire and you’ll waste them entirely. Get creative!

Delicious DIY Body Scrub

This is a post from guest blogger Jacquelyn Omotalade, lifestyle blogger and founder of Ruth Omosunbo.

The weather outside is frightening!

I have a tough time keeping my skin moisturized.  The changing weather temperatures are brutal on my skin.  I pine for the skin of a newborn baby – soft and delicate.  I have found a DIY body scrub that helps me get it.

I am very wary of a lot of over the counter lotions and creams.  If I can’t understand or pronounce the words on the back of the container, how do I know the products are safe for my body?

My concerns lead me to develop my own products for my skin at home and the results have been fabulous.

One of my favorite products is my brown sugar and Coffee scrub.  It has worked miracles on my skin.  I use it 2-3 times a week and find that it helps my skin stay soft and moisturized.

Ingredients

2 cups of coffee grinds

1.5  cups of dark muscovado sugar

2 cups of coconut oil (liquid form)

2 cups of olive oil

2 tablespoons of ginger powder

2 tablespoons of cinnamon powder

1 tablespoon of tee tree oil

½ cup of vegetable glycerin

2 12-16 oz air tight containers

I first add the coffee grinds and sugar into a clean bowl.  Add the coconut oil and stir the mixture together.  Next add the ginger and cinnamon powders and tea tree oil.

Mix the ingredients together. They should begin to form a paste.

Mix in the olive oil and glycerin. Make sure the paste is completely mixed together.

Coat the inside of the air tight container with coconut oil.  Pour the paste into the container.

To use, take a shower as you normally do, then turn off the water and scrub your whole body with the exception of your face with the body scrub. Rub as much of the body scrub as you can off your body, then rinse your body off with luke warm water.  Pat your skin dry and go about your day.

Jacquelyn Omotalade is a socially conscious lifestyle blogger, founder of Ruth Omosunbo, a batik and textile boutique founded to enrich the lives of artisans around the world and one of my favorite all around divas! She currently resides in San Francisco.

Makeup for men?

Recently, I realized half of my tinted moisturizer sales were to my male clients.

Men want to put their best face forward even if it means having some help. More companies are actually creating makeup lines for men but venturing into this realm can be daunting.

As with anything new, start simple. The new breed of tinted moisturizers are great (often called BB cream or CC cream), they provide light coverage to even skin tone and decrease shine while providing all the benefits of an SPF and moisturizer. My personal favorite is Suntegrity.

If you have a pimple or any area where you need more coverage, use a concealer. This is a product with more pigment designed to camouflage imperfections. It is not meant to be used in large areas.

A light application of tinted face powder will provide some coverage and reduce shine. Be careful not to get heavy handed since excess powder can cake in the creases of your face during the day.

Consult a professional if you have a difficult time finding a color that matches your skin tone.

When applying any tinted product, avoid the beard area if you have stubble. The product will get caught in the hairs.

Avoid wearing any tinted product when you are working out, it will run and discolor your shirt collar and towels.

Wash your face with a product designed to dissolve makeup in the evening.

Makeup can be fun, embrace it!

Are you addicted to product samples?

Q: “I go crazy collecting skin care product samples in department stores, I LOVE samples! Is it bad for my skin to be using so many different products?

A: Yes! Trying new products all the time can confuse your skin and lead to irritation. The amount of product in most sample packs lasts for 2-4 days so you may be using multiple products for each step inside of one week.

Another major downside: when you skin is looking fab, you won’t know which product made the difference!

I recommend testing one sample product at a time while keeping the rest of your routine consistent. Unfortunately, the amount of product in one sample pack won’t really tell you if it’s going to produce major results in the long run but it will tell you if you like the texture and scent.

It’s tempting to load your suitcase with product samples for travel but this isn’t the best idea either. Dry airplane air and a new climate alters your skin. The face wash that leaves your skin glowing in the humidity of Hawaii might leave you dry and flaky during the windy winter in San Francisco! Invest in refillable bottles and keep your vacation routine consistent.

Got a skin care question? Email hannahsowd@hannahsowd.com

Exfoliation

Take a stroll down the skin care aisle at any major retailer and you will get a sense that exfoliating your skin is important.

Why has exfoliation become such an important part of our skin care routine? And what is the best method for your skin type?

The skin is comprised of four layers, the top layer includes dead and dying skin cells. In young, healthy skin, these dead cells flake off in a normal cycle of about 28 days.

As we age, or our skin becomes damaged by exposure to the elements, this normal cycle begins to slow. If these dead skin cells are allowed to remain on the face for a longer period of time, the skin begins to appear rough and dull. This excess skin can also clog pores and cause blackheads.

There are many exfoliation products on the market, most fall into one of these categories:

Physical: Anything that uses particles to removes dead skin cells. Scrubs, face brushes and microdermabrasion treatments are all physical exfoliators.

Enzyme: These products use an enzyme, usually derived from fruit, to dissolve the bonds that trap dead skin cells and slow the natural skin cell turn over. An enzyme exfoliator, usually in the form of a gel or cream, is left on the skin for a short period of time to allow it to penetrate.

Chemical: Anything that uses an acid to remove dead skin cells is a chemical exfoliator. Glycolic and salicylic are two of the most popular acids used in this manner. Professional chemical peels also fall into this category.

My favorite method of exfoliating at home on a regular basis (1-2 times per week) is an enzyme mask. Enzymes are more effective and predictable than scrubs and carry less of a chance of reaction than chemicals.

For best results, professional exfoliating treatments like chemical peels and microdermabrasion should be incorporated into your routine.

Consult a professional to determine the best course of treatment for your skin type. Many of my clients with combination skin and fear of aging have a session of microdermabrasion every 4-6 weeks and a light chemical peel 3-4 times a year.

“I have bumps on my forehead that won’t go away!”

Q: I have bumps on my forehead and no matter how much I exfoliate, they won’t go away. Help!

A: The forehead is part of the T-zone, a region of the face that produces more oil. This excess oil can get trapped under a layer of dry skin and produce bumps. These bumps may never form into pimples or blackheads but can be just as annoying!

Cleanse you face twice a day, in the morning and in the evening. Use a foaming cleanser with salicylic acid followed by a toner with glycolic acid.

Twice a week use a clay mask on the affected area to help to absorb the excess oil.

Have a professional cleansing facial that includes extractions every 4-6 weeks.

This routine will keep the skin exfoliated and diminish the appearance of the bumps.

Oily skin is a chronic condition that usually gets better with age but managing it requires consistency and patience.

Have a question? Email me at hannahsowd@hannahsowd.com

“I can’t afford expensive skin care products, help!”

Q: What can a person on a budget do for better skin??

A: More expensive products generally contain a higher level of effective ingredients. In some cases, a potent $60 night cream will last you 3-4 months. A more diluted $30 version might last 6-8 weeks so the overall investment is similar. If you find a product that is out of your price range but you really love what it does for your skin, consider using it every other night (or day). While this isn’t ideal, you will still get most of the benefits of the active ingredients. On the opposite days, substitute with a less expensive, neutral moisturizer like Cereve.

Here are a few of my favorite products that can be found at the drugstore and paired with more active products for optimal results:

Cereve Cleanser: both the Hydrating  and Foaming Cleanser are great and inexpensive. For a long time, Cetaphil was considered the best drugstore cleanser but I think Cereve makes a better product. Their formulas protect and enhance the skin barrier with ceramides. Cereve PM, provides a nice amount of hydration without clogging the pores.

Aveeno makes a quality line of light SPF lotions for day use. The Ultra-Calming Daily Moisturizer with SPF 30 is a favorite among my male clients.

Vitamin C is my favorite antioxidant ingredient and most people benefit from using it on their skin.  Unfortunately, I have yet to find a good,
low cost alternative in this category.

Vitamin C requires advanced technology to stay stable in a lotion or serum, if the molecule isn’t stabilized, the vitamin C oxidizes when it is exposed to air. Vitamin C serum is one place where I recommend you splurge!

If you are in your 20’s make sure you are using an eye cream at least once a day, Neutrogena makes some nice ones. If you need a product that will correct some of the signs of aging, look for an eye cream with peptides that works on a deeper level. If puffiness is your issue, I’ve never found anything better than Yon-Ka Phyto Contour.

Find a routine that fits your time and budget and stick with it!! It’s better to use products you can afford on a daily basis than slack off when you run out of the fancy stuff and can’t afford to replace it.

Does food affect your skin?

Growing up, many of us were told not to eat greasy foods like French fries and pizza because they cause acne. Is there any truth to this theory?

Unless you have a specific allergy, a reasonable quantity of any food is not going to bring on a reaction in your skin.

That being said, a binge of junk food and alcohol that lasts a few days (or a long weekend!) can affect your skin, but when you resume your normal habits, your skin will regain balance.

Like all your organs, your skin thrives from a healthy diet. Good fats from avocado and nuts, antioxidants from berries and citrus, proteins from dark leafy greens, legumes and lean meats all support the health of your skin.

Adequate water intake, limited caffeine and sugar are an integral part as well. Recent studies show the negative affects of simple sugars on your skin, mostly in the way of free radical damage and inflammation. Limit your intake of processed foods and sugars for optimal health of your body and your skin!

Diamonds, gold…and skin care?

Do expensive ingredients really mean better skin?

The past ten years have seen an increase in luxury items being added to skin care and spa treatments with the promise of a better complexion. Caviar cream, 24 carat gold body wraps and most recently, black diamond skin serum.

Many of these ingredients provide a temporary benefit. I’ve worked with a line of caviar products that do a wonderful job of plumping the skin before a major event, great for a “red carpet facial”.  Likewise, diamond particles fill in fine lines and wrinkles as well as reflect light which gives the skin a youthful glow when the product is applied.

However, there are no long term studies that suggest these type of ingredients penetrate the outer layers of the skin or do much for the long term health of the skin.

If you have a special occasion or feel like indulging, go for it! If you’d like more bang for your buck, use proven ingredients like antioxidants, peptides and retinols.

Are you still tanning?

A tan, whether you get it on the beach, in a tanning bed, or through incidental exposure, is caused by harmful UV radiation. If you have a tan, you’ve damaged your skin cells, there is no “healthy tan”.

The cumulative damage caused by UV radiation can lead to premature aging (wrinkles, lax skin, and brown spots), as well as skin cancer. Indoor tanners are 74 percent more likely to develop melanoma than those who have never used a tanning bed.

If you rely on sun exposure to increase your vitamin D levels, consider taking a vitamin D supplement instead. You will achieve the same results without the risk of skin cancer and premature aging.

If you are going on vacation or want a change of pace for summer, consider a spray tan. Many salons offer custom blended solutions applied by skilled technicians that mimic the appearance of a natural tan without the damage to the skin cells.

Make sure you are wearing an SPF with a high concentration of zinc oxide for the best protection on a daily basis.

What’s wrong with organic skin care?

Nothing! I think many organic products are lovely.

However, there are several reasons my products are not certified organic.

Skin care products can be divided into two categories: maintenance and corrective. Maintenance products help to maintain the current condition of your skin while corrective products correct issues like acne, melasma, and the effects of aging.

The majority of my work centers around corrective skin care. My clients want to improve, not just maintain, their skin.

Corrective products need to contain high performance ingredients to be effective. High performance ingredients are dose dependent so they must use chemically standardized plant extracts.

These ingredients do not meet the guidelines set forth by the FDA to be considered “organic” however, they are not “toxic” either.

Vitamin C is a perfect example. It is readily available in citrus fruit yet the potency of juice from an orange can vary greatly. Recreating a the l-ascorbic acid molecule in a lab allows the manufacturer to guarantee the effectiveness of the dose each and every time. This lab created molecule is identical to that found in nature while still being chemically standardized. The color, pH, odor, solid content, viscosity and levels of specific performance related chemicals are consistent. This assures you get results from your skin care products!

That being said, there are some toxic ingredients to look out for when choosing your skin care products. Parabens have been linked to certain types of cancer, sulfates can be drying and harsh to the surface of the skin. Many inexpensive, widely used preservatives contain formaldehyde.

Anti Aging Secrets: proactive versus reactive

When it comes to your anti aging strategy, are you proactive or reactive?

Proactive:
serving to prepare for, intervene in, or control an expected occurrence or situation, especially a negative or difficult one; anticipatory: proactive measures against crime.

Reactive:
1.tending to react.
2.pertaining to or characterized by reaction: a reverse movement or tendency; an action in a reverse direction or manner.

During my 17 years in the skin care business, I have seen my proactive or preventive maintenance inclined clients fare far better than those that react once problems begin.

The latest high tech ingredients are designed to prevent as well as correct but have a far better chance of working when intervention is premature.

Skin is made up mostly of collagen, the foundation that gives your skin its support and thickness. Collagen is protein made up long chains of amino acids strung together, when it is broken down, short segments of 3-5 amino acids form, called peptides. This is a natural part of the aging process.

Applying peptides directly to your skin is a way to trick your skin into thinking that it has lost collagen recently and needs to make more. The most popular peptide for cosmetic use is palmitoyl pentapeptide (Matrixyl).

The key to getting the best results from a peptide product is to begin using it before the damage is extreme. The long term results from using a peptide based cream at age 30 are going to be better than the results from the same product at age 40.

Proactive prevention is a key component in the anti aging process!

Antioxidants: Who? What? When? Where? Why?

Antioxidants are the trendy skin care ingredient right now. Here’s a simple breakdown to determine if they are something you should be adding to your routine.

Who?
Everyone. Especially those over the age of 30, smokers, and sun worshipers.

What?
Superfruits like Goji berries, Acai berries, coffee berries, white and greens teas and COQ10 are examples of ingredients that neutralize free radical damage. Damage from free radicals is the common denominator is most skin issues.

When?
Every day. Use an antioxidant product under your SPF to enhance it’s protective properties and at night under your moisturizer to repair cellular damage while you sleep.

Where?
On your face, neck and decollete.

Why?
To neutralize environmental damage from free radicals, reduce inflammation,  calm acne, moisturize the skin and prevent wrinkles.

Soothing Menopausal Skin

This post is from guest blogger Renee Iverson:

When your skin changes, you must change your skin care!

Just as every woman has a different coming of age story or perhaps a unique birthing tale, so it goes with every woman’s journey through menopause.  One thing is common among almost all women – they experience changes in the skin.

The hormonal shifts experienced during menopause can wreak havoc on the skin.  Where skin was once plump and dewy, often becomes sunken and lackluster. Acne once again rears its ugly head and wrinkles, crinkles and spots seem to appear over night.

In my personal experience, bone dry skin, increased facial hair and deep cystic acne eruptions have become my constant foes.  What I have learned in my journey from your average American Mom to Hot Flash Mama is that when your skin changes, you must change your skin care! Soothing your hot skin and hot body is a must to bring relief and quickly heal hormonal breakouts.

Any time your body is having a hot flash, the inflammation cascade is kicked into high gear. One of my favorite soothing products is  Soothing Gel Mask. This mask brings comforting moisture and repair-support to any skin type in minutes with an instantly cooling high potency blend of hydrating Panthenol, calming Allantoin and ultra-soothing Sea Whip.

To gently exfoliate, clear up cystic acne and cool at the same time try Purifying Comfort Mask. This gel mask purifies skin’s surface, dissolves dead cells, cools heat and redness and encourages skin to repair itself. It contains a form of Chinese licorice that interrupts the biochemical cascade that leads to redness and other discomfort. This gel also decreases lipase, an enzyme that increases inflammation and irritation in the skin.

Many women experience increased facial hair during menopause.  One thing I find, is that most women with unwanted hair are master pluckers! Acne is often the result of plucked hair because it inflames the dermal tissue around the hair follicle causing it to close down and create a pimple.  Again the Soothing Gel Mask and the Purifying Comfort Mask are must-have products to soothe the area around the follicle.  Pore Purifying Astringent is a wonderful product for cleaning the skin before and after you pluck.  Follow that with either of the masks and you will rarely get pimples.

Exfoliating menopausal skin is a must, but many of the methods used in the past can be too harsh and cause unwanted inflammation – the number one cause of aging in the skin. If you find that your skin is not happy with your current routine, it is time for a change! Perhaps you should try Radiance Boost Exfoliating Toner for any skin type needing light exfoliation.  This mild exfoliating freshener can be used once or twice daily to brighten, revive radiance and minimize pores.

There are so many variables that go into creating healthy vibrant skin. It is so important to be educated about what is happening with your skin so you can make informed choices about its care. A facial with a licensed aesthetician and skin care expert – someone who knows skin care ingredient chemistry and skin physiology is an essential step on your journey to beautiful skin for the rest of your life!

Renee Iverson  is the resident Aesthetician at Mountain Sun in Kirkland, WA.  She is all about focusing on techniques to improve the look, feel and function of the skin with an emphasis on long-term healing and rejuvenation modalities.  She has earned continuing education credits from UCLA Extension studying ingredient chemistry, skin physiology, and advanced skin care ingredients for specific skin conditions. You can follow her on Twitter.

“I’m 28 years old, do I need to use an eye cream?”

Q: I recently turned 28 and notice fine lines forming around my eyes. I have a very expressive smile and don’t want to end up with “crows feet”! Is is too early to start using eye cream?

A: No. A high quality eye cream will do a lot more to prevent the signs of aging than to correct damage once it’s occurred.

There are many products to choose from, the two most common are creams and gels. Gels are lighter in weight and great to use during the day since they have a temporary smoothing and tightening effect. Creams are more moisturizing which makes them good for nighttime or both day and night if you have very dry skin.

Read the ingredients before you purchase a product. Peptides are very important, they encourage the skin to produce more collagen which will have a lasting effect on the eye area. Ingredients like Vitamin C and AHA’s are great to lighten hyper-pigmented areas under the eyes.

Choose a product that fits into your budget, you will see improvement after a time but you need to keep using it for the benefits to last.

Can going off “the pill” cause acne?

Many of my clients have transitioned off oral contraceptives over the years and the majority of them have some level of skin reaction. This article does a great job of explaining the possible physiological reasons for the skin reaction. Keep in mind, the acne created from the shift in hormone levels is temporary and can be keep under control with some simple changes to your routine. Consult your favorite skin care specialist for recommendations!